While her exoskeletons and crystalline structures have always felt far more visionary than the usual display of couture, their future as wearable designs seemed uncertain. By contrast, this collection, titled Shift Souls, expressed lightness through diaphanous silhouettes with hand-plissé volumes, soft patterning, and alluring body focus. This expression of femininity might translate to greater visibility for Van Herpen; and with two full days of shows to come, it set the bar high. “I see it not as one shift at a time so much as an evolution,” she said backstage, somewhat downplaying this significant leap. To close the show, light effects by artist Nick Verstand submerged the models in a deep blue vapor that canceled out the colors. But they definitely lingered on in the mind.